New Power of Reconstruction – Mei Lim Cooper, Helen Lawrence, Shao Yen

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New Power of Reconstruction – Mei Lim Cooper, Helen Lawrence, Shao Yen

In the graduation of CSM and some new designers this year, I can found most of them used reconstruction and recycling as their inspiration. All of these collections give a good direction of fashion design and a concern of protection of our living earth. 

Mei Lim Cooper

Mei Lim Cooper is a graduate of CSM in 2012, she created a kind of luxury sportswear in her graduation collection. We can see a really high concept and high quality knit in the collection. It is a reconstruction of basic knitwear. Mei Lim Cooper used simple flat knit wear and transform it to be 3-D luxury wear. The neck hole and armhole placed on different area on the knit body which means her clothing can be worn in countless different way. 

Mei Lim Cooper also mixed lush cashmere with heritage fisherman’s’ rib, brightly colored nylon football socks, that makes the whole collection become funny and recycling promoted. Her inspiration also is a mixture of art and designs, including Tarpaulin, Marc Vaux’s paintings, Gary Hume’s Sculptures and Spencer Finch’s Fluorescent light works. The collection is new and funny , Mei Lim Cooper also created want she wants ” stunning in simplicity”. 

Helen Lawrence 

Helen Lawrence also is a graduate of CSM 2012 , her collection gets inspiration of recycling. There are different materials in her outfits including leather, canvas, transparent plastic and some woven and knit materials. She also use industrial used string and nail to join all materials together as an outfits. It gives a raw and reuse feeling of the collection. The outfits also used asymmetric cut as main silhouette, it is a perfect match with the recycled materials, giving a natural side of forming in the collection. 

Shao Yen 

Shao Yen is the 2010 graduate of CSM. After the graduation, he created his own London based brand named as Shao Yen. Shao Yen created clothing with a signature of sculptural form and using innovative textile. His SS12 collection named as “Sseddog”, it is the reverse of the word “Goddess”. The collection takes inspiration from dark and glitter things, including fairy goddesses, tribal, punk, bondage and street-walker’ styles.  “Sseddog” did a lot of work in the hand crafting technique, showing the DIY side which the designer good at. He applied the techniques of binding, knotting, rough edges and layering in the collection, using different material matching in each outfits. Shao Yen want to show his aesthetic view of exposing different part of body to create aesthetics and philosophic meanings. 


Shao Yen’s Not just a label account:


When Criminal Girl meets ….

Working Process…..

….meets Mei Lim Cooper 

…. Meets Helen Lawrence 



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