Interviews with LCF graduates- Isabell Yalda Hellysaz
My first impression of Isabell Yalda Hellysaz’s collection is about Muslim fundamentalist. Isabell Yalda Hellysaz is one of the graduate of London College of Fashion this year. She interested in pattern cutting, sewing and tailored clothing. We can commonly see her techniques in the collection.
This collection is about global issue and war. Isabell thinks that fashion always played an important role in war , as fashion is a media of capitalism to spread messages through mass production and fast consumption. She takes inspiration from German Second World War uniforms and Space Age. Isabell thinks that the Space Age also is a kind of war which is the competition in between science and technology. She used fabrics, craft and details to explore a more human alternative concept and concentrate on the essence of fashion. In the silhouette, Isabell wants to create a constant touch with masculine shapes for her models.
Interview with Isabell Yalda Hellysaz
G: Criminal Girl, I: Isabell Yalda Hellysaz
G: You had a presentation of collection in your graduation show. Would you please tell me more about this collection? (the theme, silhouette or details of the collection)
I: As a future fashion designer, global issues are very important to me and this is reflected in my work. Fashion has always played an important role in war and is constantly used in propaganda and advertisements. In today’s society we are under a constant and intense media bombardment about what is “accepted” and capitalism has turned fashion into a tool for mass production and fast consumption. Researching indebt into this subject my collection ”Antidote” starting point was inspired by a range of German Second World War uniforms where masculine shapes inspired the designs of the collection. Through out my research I also was inspired by Space Age images which led me to experiment and develop some of my own futuristic feel to fabrics using special machinery such as Tanaka.
G: Will you use your design signature or terms to describe your new collection?
I: Fashion today has become mass production and fast consumption. Slowing down the process I really wanted to explore a more human alternative and concentrate on the things that is essentially fashion, such as tailoring methods, fabrics, crafts, and details. It’s a very minimal collection where the female is in a constant touch with masculine shapes.
G: What is your muse for this collection?
I: I don’t really have a muse for this collection and haven’t really felt like I am in the need of having one specific stamp on it and directly put it into a stereotype box. I have always felt like I am designing for myself, if I wouldn’t wear it then why should I expect someone else to invest in my cloths. So I guess maybe my muse is Me.
G: What kind of make up/ accessories for your collection?
I: As I am a more of a minimal designer (even though I do love embellishments) the accessories becomes the small details like buttons, or plastic and leather detailing, then I Have my big visors. Sometimes less is actually more and therefore I have kept it very minimal. When it comes to the makeup I really wanted a very natural look where the statement was more in the eyebrows rather than the whole face as shown in my Fall 2012 Lookbook.
G: What new for you this season? Any colors or designs element recommended?
I: I as a person have never been a very strong color person and I really do admire people who can pull it of. When I initially started my research I never saw myself having the collection completely white, however that’s where my research lead me. I never really look at trends and I never seek to fallow it but funny enough white seems to be everywhere now.
G: How about your study in London College of Fashion? Any special culture? The environment? and why your choose this school?
I: You are constantly on the go at LCF. It’s rather a new project, or a live project, or working with someone or designing for someone. I love the fact that you at LCF are never compressed down into a box. There are always different opportunities available at the college. The London College of Fashion has a worldwide reputation and I chose it because I wanted to be somewhere where I could actually grow as a designer and I was hungry for the knowledge. At LCF individuality is the key for the students you get the freedom to find your self as a designer and you mostly work very independently therefore it is very important to be organized.
G: Why did you interested in fashion?
I: This may sound like a cliché but I actually as long as I can remember wanted to be a fashion designer. However it has been hard getting to the stage I am now. I had some difficulties convincing my parents that this was the career for me but after my Graphic Design graduation I just took things into my own hands and went for it. I love beautiful cloths and I just really enjoy being creative. I also feel that today you can bring global issues into fashion and I like to explore that more through my career.
G: What do you think about the new designers in London?
I: Honestly, I haven’t really had that much time concentrating on looking up new designers in London as I have just been so busy trying to make myself one. I think London is a good place to start as a designer as the city is so cosmopolitan and the inspiration for your next collection could just be out on your doorstep.
G: What will you prefer to be after the graduation? (About the Career Path/ will you start your own brand)?
I: My ultimate goal is to start my own Fashion house and run my own brand. It is a lot of hard work but I feel like it is a challenge I would like to take on.
G: Is it a kind of challenge to start an own brand?
I: Off course it is a challenge to start your own brand. However everything in life is a challenge. I guess you just have to be up for hard work and many sleep less nights.
G: Who is your target customers? Or your muse of your own brand?
I: As a brand you obviously do need a target customer, however I am not sure if this applies to me at the moment or ever. I design cloths that I want to wear. If I don’t want to wear it then why should I expect someone else to do so. I recently received some feedback that a more mature target found things in my collection that they want to wear. So for me that is a great response I like my clothes to fit into a wider range of people. And its nice to have a balance in the big age gap.
G: What is the next project for you?
I: Next project is to get a job or actually try to get a sponsorship for Stockholm Mercedes fashion week. I just want to throw myself into designing and start building up a career within the fashion industry.
G: Where do you seek your inspiration?
I: It is really hard to answer this question as I don’t have a specific thing to do or a specific place to go for this. Inspiration is around me everyday, every minute, every second that my eyes are open. It might be someone in the street, something on tv, something that I read in a book/magazine or I might just have a dream or an idea about something that I then bring into indent research.
G: What is your favorite designer and why?
I: There are so many talented designers that I like for different reasons. Hussain chalayan and the way he pushes all the boundaries, Vivienne Westwood for bringing global issues into her designs, Phoebe Philo, Marc Jacobs, Karl Lagerfeld, Alber Albaz, Commes de Garcons are just a few to be mentioned.
After the interview….
I really like the honest behavior of Isabell, I really like what she said ” So I guess maybe my muse is Me.” Yes… Actually all designers design something she likes and she would like to wear. It is a good attitude, we like design because we like to dress up ourselves, and we like to apply our point of view of beauty in our collection. I hope that she will keep her attitude and create her own unique designs.
More about Isabell Yalda Hellysaz:
When Criminal Girl meets Isabell Yalda Hellysaz